Marseille Itinerary
Snack, Spritz, Sun and repeat
French 79 is the reason Marseille landed on the list. Years of listening to his music raised the question: how does this city shape his sound? Why stay here instead of moving to Paris to make it?
A few other things piqued the curiosity - a city on the Mediterranean that isn’t part of the French Riviera, the second largest in France, and the reflexive “ew, Marseille, so dangerous” that comes up whenever the destination gets mentioned.
First Impressions
Was the city dirty? Some parts. People made it sound like the whole place was buried in trash, but really it came down to one major street lined with dumpsters. Rats made an appearance too - one yelled at Steve when he tried to pee behind a dumpster - but still fewer than in Seattle. Plenty of graffiti, though it blended into the buildings rather than standing out. For the most part, the streets were no dirtier than most L.A. streets - that’s just what happens in a city.
Hotel: Mama Shelter Marseille - You can read the review here.
Where We Ate
Bikini - Fine, though probably over-ordered, especially on the meats. The tomato bruschetta was the highlight, and the spritzes didn’t disappoint. Staff were relaxed, but something got lost in translation — what read as being asked to leave turned out to be a request to move from a four-top to a two-top.
Prémices - Chosen for two reasons: open on Sundays, and a great natural wine list. Only a prix fixe menu, so it was a gamble whether the dishes would land. They did — a French-Vietnamese fusion night with about eight courses, including a standout dessert. The server was a delight, recommended a great wine, and ended every interaction with the word “dreamy.” Fitting, because the whole meal was.
Splendido - Part of the Big Mama Restaurant group. The sister location in Munich didn’t work out on an earlier trip, so finding one in Marseille was a win. A feast for the eyes - a photobooth in the restroom, an infinity-mirror toilet room - and the food held up too. Reservation recommended; the space is large but fills up.
COIN COIN - The search was for a bistro with classic French dishes and a modern twist - oddly specific, but this delivered. After checking out of Mama Shelter, the last stop before leaving town was a rooftop bar followed by a reserved slot here. Small, eclectic menu with a few specials, no notes needed - simple, lovely, dreamy food. The duck confit fell off the bone. A perfect final bite in Marseille.
Where We Had a Drink
Labo n heure - Spotted from the taxi on the way to the hotel and conveniently close by. All patio with a few indoor seats, a World Cup match playing, and a solid range of local beers, imported beers, natural and old-school wines, and classic cocktails. The bartender was patient through limited French and some help from Google Translate. Only two rounds fit into the schedule, but it came up in conversation for the rest of the trip.
Carry Nation - A true speakeasy built around Prohibition-era America, reportedly home to the largest collection of Prohibition artifacts in one space - posters, photos, even the little hatchets used to smash bottles. The drinks were the real draw: a Cuban menu in rotation at the time, two of those plus three from the regular menu, including a tiki drink. Highly recommended, ideally seated at the bar. Reservations required - the address and entry code arrive by email.
Ciel|Rooftop - Airy, great views, solid drinks. Classic lagers on tap and a well-suited white wine recommendation. A reservation is probably worth making if a view is the priority.
Activities
Two beach days, both worth it. The first, after lunch at Bikini, was spent on the rocks at Tuba Club. The second involved paying 25 euros for lounge chairs and constant shade at a beach club. The only shopping happened at Sessún - one pink t-shirt made it home.
A few afternoons went to cafés with a beer, watching World Cup matches late into the night. The Germany-Paraguay game was stressful - Germany’s always the pick, since it was the first international destination reached by plane, but seeing the Paraguay fans celebrate was still a good time.
The Museum of Mediterranean Civilizations didn’t happen, and that one stings a little - it’s closed on Tuesdays, right when a post-dinner visit seemed possible. Next time. The ferry out to Les Îles for a swim is also on the list.
Did anything in Marseille feel unsafe? No. Was anyone outwardly rude for being American? No. Did everyone in Marseille talk trash about Paris? Constantly. So - stop listening to the (American) chorus calling this place dangerous. It isn’t. It’s just not Paris. Marseille is its own thing.